Alternator Replacement on a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica

I’m back to working on this car once again! Now it’s the alternator. It’s REALLY making a lot of noise but it’s still charging. So 2 things could be wrong. The bushings or the armature is going out. After we get the alternator off then we will see what it is. Now that it’s out just by the looks on the outside are concerning because there is a brown residue on it. That could have been caused by overheating or from the armature burning up slowly. Why is that possible? Could be from mileage, weather, a bad part, or it could have been a bad rebuild part, or it could have even been a new part but not tested before it was sent out. Anyway, there is something very wrong with this beast.

 

Ok. Now taking this alternator off, there are three bolts for the brace, which are 13-millimeter metric sockets, and pay attention to this brace, it actually says on it, “This side up.”  So when you reinstall the brace it has two nuts and one bolt to remove the brace. Then you have two bolts to remove the alternator. You’ll need your 15-millimeter metric socket on a 3/8 drive ratchet to break them off at first.

Then bring in the serpentine belt tool (if you don’t own one they rent them at any parts store) then once the bolts are removed place a pry bar or long screwdriver to hold your tension on the belt until you have replaced the alternator.

We went and bought our alternator while my pry bar held the belt tension. It worked very nicely. We returned with our new alternator. We moved the pry bar to install our new part but held onto the belt so we didn’t lose that position. Once our alternator was in place we grabbed our bolts. The front bolt first. It was our main bolt, then our back one. Then we put our belt on the alternator While using the serpentine belt tool. Now onto the connections. As I look at my positive battery connection it has a little position seating gauge. And it’s a little off of our last alternator. Well, we’ll see how it will be when we get it installed with the top brace and to this positive battery connection cover.  (ATTENTION) Do not tighten it down if you have doubts if it’s not going to work. Then reset it again. We don’t want to have any problems like arcing.

Then I want to replace a temporary fix done on the positive battery post connection with a screw in it. So I removed the screw and stripped back the insulation and found acid corrosion. Cleared it out then reinstalled a new battery connection. Then tightened everything down and started the car. And then I said YAY! She lives!!!!