Well, this started to be a simple brake job? HA! Only THIS ONE had more surprises in store for me and its owner. Not knowing what was coming up, we went to the parts store and picked up rear pads and one lug stud for a broken one,(from a previous flat tire incident). We then got back to start work by raising the truck with my floor jack, only enough so I could loosen the nuts and they were rusted on, bad!!!
Good thing I had my “old school” X wrench or 4-way wrench, for leverage since I don’t have an impact wrench . . . . . . . . . .yet. Once broken, I finished raising it, then bracing it with a jack stand on the axle shock mount, removed the tire. While bracing my foot on the bottom end of the X wrench, and my left hand on the opposite end of the X-wrench also placing my right hand on the truck. And placing the other leg for the support, firmly on the ground, I broke all the nuts.
This was our right or passenger rear wheel that had so much rust on it I was thankful I had my X-wrench with me. That’s how I got the beast off.
This picture shows a broken lug stud that was broken off because the owner had a previous flat tire and this lug nut didn’t want to come off and they didn’t replace the lug. But we will be!
On a quick side note:
ALWAYS take the used or broken part with you to the parts store! I can’t tell you how many times I’ve written down the correct part and part number from a store’s website, and yet I have had to return yet again because they gave me the wrong part, still.
Okay, back to our project. Now on the left side, I removed the caliper bolts which are 14mm metric bolt size on a 3/8 drive ratchet, then I laid the caliper on the rear backtrack arms, but mostly I just grab myself an old wire clothes hanger to hang it on so not to do damage to the brake line. On the left side, I have to remove the brake caliper mounting frame to remove the rotor and replace the lug stud in the axle, so once I have this off I have access to the axle hub. Now to replace the stud. I knocked out the old one then put the truck in neutral to rotate the axle to get a better opening to reinstall the new stud. (The emergency brake pads were in my way) But remember once done, put back into the park position, because I was on flat pavement. I put a little grease on my stud where it will seat itself with the hub to help it go in easier with me only having an X wrench to pull it in once finished there, I could finish the replacement of the brake pads. First, reinstall the rotor then the caliper mounting frame. Put on a thin coat of Red Thread Locker to its bolts (as pictured) then, install and torque down to 95ft pounds with a torque wrench. If you don’t have one, you can rent it from an Auto parts store. (I have done so many of them I know what 95ft pounds ) Ok, now onto the pads. Install brake shims, and don’t throw away your old pads or shims to use as a reference and you’ll need your old pads later. Now pick out the shims that are the same as yours and install them the same way you pull yours out. The other shims go on top of your caliper. ( as seen in pictures of the caliper )
Our Driver rear wheel with New lug stud installed. Before we do 1 step and put some anti-seize on it just a small amount don’t go nuts.
passenger rear wheel ready for our tire to be installed
Our wheel was welded to our wheel hub. So we had to break it off from the backside with a heavy hammer and hitting the tire, not the wheel.
Then with your pads, you will have to work with them past the frame in the front and they are a bugger to put it past this area. But not on the backside. Be sure your shims are fully clipped in place if your having problems have Patience they’ll go in. Now on the right-side rear wheel, the lug nuts are rusted on! ALMOST impossible to get off. So I did leave some of the weight of the truck on this wheel to break them. I am so thankful for my X wrench!!!! I am sure I would have never got these nuts loose. Even the owner was surprised at how hard it was and he was sure he couldn’t do it himself! Looking at these pictures of the rust, there were even rust particles in the wheel area where the cap goes. Holy rust Batman!!! Next, I did the same here as the left rear wheel. Removed the caliper easily, then I noticed lots of rust and the rubber boots around the pistons are in pretty bad shape!!! So I advised the owner about this. They will need changing ASAP! So next we put in my shims then grab an old brake pad to compress the pistons with an 8″ C-clamp.
Be sure of your placement of this clamp on the caliper so as not to hit the brake line or your bleeder valves. There’s a solid place in the middle of the caliper backside that’s a sweet spot for the C-clamp to squeeze down on with your old brake pad at the piston side. Be aware not to twist the brake hose or line. Keep it straight watch the brake line hose it has lines in it to keep it straight when installing it and try not pulling on it too much and check its condition while you’re at it while you are under the truck, for weather cracking or any wear or moisture from brake fluid. I checked out this one and it is good. Now while reinstalling remember to use your brake grease on your caliper bolts. The one I am working on is really dry and the right side had a little grease and dirt in the rudder boot. Properly grease these and reinstall them on their little round clips. (As pictured)
You will get better performance and longer life out of your pads and rotors here. Then reinstall everything, then I put a little coat of anti-seize on my lugs after with a wire brush over them, just to make installing the nuts easier and for any future times for the owner if he has any flat tires.
