This repair first started out as thinking we needed to replace the whole regulator unit. Come to find out it was simpler than that. It just needed the clips that attach the regulator to the brackets that mount to the bottom of the window. Replacing the clips seem easy enough but you’ve got to remember how to attach them and remove the old ones and not break the new ones while installing them.
You have to have a general idea of how they go back together. As I looked at the new clips in the bag that I purchased from eBay, I could see that there was 2 for the driver side and 2 for the passenger side. But they were not marked! So I looked at other auto part retailers websites for extra references to figure out which ones were the passenger and which one was the driver side.
After deciphering this, I can proceed to install my new clips on my regulator that I got from a junkyard. Starting this project, I know which tools I need for this job. I need a small tip flat bit screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers and my dad’s channel lock pliers. Next, I start to dig out this little block that holds the clip in place on my little metal strand of wire that these clips are attached to that allows the window to go up and down.
Once I get it out I begin the fun of reinstalling my new clips on my steel brackets that will bolt to the bottom of my window bracket once my window regulator is back in the car. Now, this is where I went to those automotive part retailers online as a reference to installing my clips properly so my clips are on my rails perfectly.
While doing this job I really didn’t want to break these clips and have to buy new ones and delay this job any longer than it already has. Now you will see next how I reattach the little steel ball that’s attached to the steel cable into the clip with my channel lock pliers. After that, I get to attach the clip to the window regulator rail with just a dab of lube grease as it shows in my picture, this is how it goes on and don’t force it. I put lube grease on because these rails were a little dry and lube grease is all I had.
In my picture, it shows it went on with ease. And looks like a brand new regulator. Going to my car, I unhook the negative cable on the battery first, because I will have the door open for a long period. Now, I get the fun part of taking the door panel off, diving in and putting this beauty back to work. This door panel has three screws holding it on. One behind the reflective lens and two just behind the door grip.
Then get an interior door panel tool or a flat bit screwdriver and start popping the clips that hold the door panel on and gently pull them away then the plastic sheeting on the door can be removed. Then there is this heavy steel plate that the door handle screws are mounted to that has three nuts on it that are all 10 mm sockets. Once I got this plate out of the way I can commence installing my window regulator. Now, this thing needs to be crossed to fit in the narrow section in the middle of the door. Where that heavy steel plate was that was just removed in order to get it in its proper position. I also remember where the positioning of my power window motor was when I took it out the first time.
Ok. Once my regulator is in position, I install the bolts for the tracks of the regulator and I DO NOT tighten them down yet, I just started a couple of threads to hold it. Then, I grab my wire coat hangers I use to hold the window in place to the existing mounting holes for the regulator.
Remember to put these bolts in the brackets for the window and only starting a couple of threads also, for a good alignment before tightening down the window regulator tracks. Now, making sure everything is lined up properly, I can go back and tighten the window mount bolts then the window regulator tracks, then plug in the motor to your regulator.
Ok, the next thing is plug in the switch for the windows, rehook up the negative cable on the battery. I can test it at this point before putting it all together. I would hate to have to put it all together and take it all apart again, it’s just easier to test it at this point. We have a winner!!! YAY, it works!!!
Now to go back and unhook the battery again while I finish the rest. But before I finish putting the door panel on, I still have to replace the speaker in the door. I was just going to splice it into the original wire harness but I decided to take the whole speaker out and tap all the way into the speaker and all of its original connections with a couple of butt connections, it made it a nice clean job. No one would know that it wasn’t a factory new speaker.
Now the re-installation of the door panel and all the electrical connections and the upper door panel and window sill. Be patient with the door panel. It may fight you a little bit, the material at the top of the door panel may pull up a little bit but if you run a medium size flat bit screwdriver along with it and the screwdriver is on its side, you can tuck it back in and make it nice and clean without any hassle.
Now just line up the clips of the door panel and pop them into place with a quick slap of the palm of your hand. Then install the 3 screws for the door panel, the 2 behind the handle grip and the one behind the reflective lens at the bottom of the door. Then just pop in your lens and don’t forget to reconnect your battery. Now to enjoy the work that was done on your window for many years down the road!
